Smoky Mountain Fall

Fall in the Smokies felt like a no-brainer. We were chasing crisp air, moody skies, and the kind of leaf color that makes you pull over just to take in nature’s beauty. We built this trip around Great Smoky Mountains National Park, hoping to time it just right for peak leaf season. The plan: chase foliage, hike some trails, and soak up that foggy atmosphere the Smokies are famous for. But with Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge right next door, we couldn’t not add Dollywood to the mix (plus a stay at one of Dolly Parton’s resorts, obviously).

We flew into Nashville, made a stop at Mammoth Cave, and took the long, scenic way through Tennessee—rural highways, small towns, and a picturesque oasis. Then came a few days of hiking and leaf-peeping, followed by a few more riding some of the best roller coasters in the country. We wrapped things up with a loop back to Nashville through Chattanooga.

A week of mountain sunrises, waterfalls, roadside surprises, and enough fried food to power a theme park. Here’s how it all played out.

Trip Overview

• Length: 9 Days
• States Visited: Tennessee, Kentucky, North Carolina (briefly, atop Kuwohi)
• National Parks: Mammoth Cave, Great Smoky Mountains

Mini Coopers, Big Heat

We flew from Denver to Nashville and picked up our rental car at the airport: a Mini Cooper Countryman we booked through Turo. It was super fun to drive and set the tone for the trip. When renting a car, it’s tempting to go with the most economical option, but sometimes it’s worth considering the experience. You’ll be spending a lot of time behind the wheel—you might as well enjoy it. The Mini was a car we both loved, and getting to “test drive” one for a whole week made the trip feel extra special.

Another thing we always prioritize now is CarPlay. Being able to plug in our phones and instantly see trip pins, directions, playlists, and notes takes a ton of stress out of navigating a new place. It’s one of those small features that makes a surprisingly big difference.

We spent our first two nights at The Iris Motel, a boutique-style “hotel” run more like a vacation rental. There’s no front desk—everything from check-in to checkout happens over text or email. The rooms were cute and freshly remodeled with a clean, modern vibe. That said, since there’s no staff on-site, the vibe really depends on who else is staying there. During our visit, the guests skewed younger and louder, and not everyone seemed concerned with the posted quiet hours—something to note if you’re hoping for a restful stay. God, are we old now?

For dinner, we knew exactly what we wanted: Nashville Hot Chicken. Our research pointed to a showdown between two big names—Prince’s and Hattie B’s. We’d just arrived and were wiped from travel, and there happened to be a Hattie B’s nearby. That felt like a sign.

Even at 8 p.m., the line was out the door—a good sign. We ordered a hot chicken sandwich (medium spice), a dark meat plate (also medium), pimento mac and cheese, fries, cheesy bacon grits, and two peach cobblers. Everything was rich, flavorful, and exactly what we needed after a long travel day. The chicken was crispy, juicy, and just spicy enough to make us question our life choices—in the best way. The cobbler? Absolute standout. We only got it because it was free with the app signup, but it ended up being one of our best decisions of the night. Pro tip: save room.

Everything was rich, flavorful, and oh-so-satisfying. The chicken and cobbler were the clear standouts. The medium spice level hit our upper limit—we were both sweating. No regrets, but we were definitely glad we didn’t test our luck with anything higher on the heat scale, which ranges from “Southern” (no heat) to “Shut the Cluck Up!!!™” (a.k.a. burn your britches).

National Park by Day, Noodles by Night

Since we were in the area, we carved out time for a quick detour to Mammoth Cave National Park, just a 1.5-hour drive from Nashville. Coming from Colorado, where everything is spaced out and a 1.5-hour drive barely gets us from Denver to Cheyenne, this felt almost absurdly close. It was an easy national park to check off our list and a chance to explore a totally different kind of terrain underground.

Pro tip: If you want to tour the cave, book in advance. When we arrived at the visitor center, signs were already up saying all tours were sold out for the day. We’d planned ahead and snagged tickets for two: the Historic Tour in the morning and the Domes and Dripstones Tour in the afternoon. The tour we really wanted—the all-day Wild Cave Tour—was already booked when we planned our trip. That one involves crawling through tight spaces and navigating physical obstacles. Next time, we’ll plan further ahead and bring kneepads.

The Historic Tour was fascinating from a historical perspective. We learned about the cave’s role in supplying nitrate for the War of 1812 and saw areas where artifacts dating back 5,000 years had been discovered. The highlight: they found a giant sunflower head, evidence that ancient civilizations had cultivated crops. The tour group was massive, close to 100 people, which made it feel more like a lecture than an adventure. Still worth doing once, but not something we’d repeat.

After soaking up hours of cave facts and cool, damp air, we grabbed a quick lunch at Green River Grill near the visitor center, then headed into the Domes and Dripstones Tour, which was much more engaging. It started with a dramatic descent into a sinkhole and led us through towering domes and massive formations, eventually ending in the spectacular Frozen Niagara area. This tour also had a big group, but the formations were far more visually impressive. We enjoyed learning about the “new entrance” discovered in 1921 by George Morrison, a local cave guide who helped open up this now-iconic route. It was also more physically demanding, with about 640 stairs, and leaned more toward geology than history. If we had to pick just one, this would be it.

After the tour, we headed back to Nashville— but not without stopping by Buc-ee's to pick up some Beaver Nuggets for the road! That evening, we pulled up our list of saved restaurants and narrowed it down to a pizza place and an Asian fusion spot. We tried the pizza place first: a forty-five-minute wait. Decision made.

Enter Xiao Bao, tucked in East Nashville’s Cleveland Park neighborhood. Out front, there’s a giant fiberglass strawberry—an unmistakable nod to the whimsical fruit-shaped bus stops that originated in Japan in the ’80s. Originally built for a world expo and later repurposed to attract tourism, they’ve become low-key icons of playful public design. The strawberry sets the tone before you even walk in: a little unexpected, a little retro, and definitely not your average dinner spot.

The restaurant’s vibe was part retro diner, part moody mid-century lounge. It featured chrome details, warm red lighting, and a collection of vintage knick-knacks that would feel right at home in your Chinese grandmother’s house or your hipster friend’s apartment. Our server explained the rules: small plates only, no substitutions, no modifications. Each dish was crafted to be enjoyed exactly as it was. Challenge accepted.

We ordered four dishes to share. The Hat Yai Thai Chicken Lettuce Wraps were a fresh, spicy, crunchy start—light but full of flavor. Then came the Hashbrown Crab Rangoon, which totally stole the show. Imagine a crab cheese wonton, but instead of a wrapper, it’s a perfectly crispy hashbrown holding all that creamy filling. It was weird and wonderful.

Next came the Okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese-style cabbage pancake topped with an egg, bonito flakes, and something we hadn’t planned on trying: pork candy. We’d actually ordered it without the pork candy (because honestly, it sounded a little weird), but the kitchen accidentally sent out the full version. Our server let us keep it. A mistake that ended up working out in our flavor… I mean favor. Pork candy, as it turns out, is finely shredded pork floss with a light sweetness and airy texture, like savory confetti. It added just the right touch of richness on top of the pancake.

We wrapped up with their signature Biang Biang Hand-Pulled Noodles. These chewy, hand-torn noodles were so long they came with scissors. They were coated in a savory málà (麻辣) sauce that delivered that signature tingly-numbing heat. The dish was topped with chili-cumin brisket, trumpet mushrooms, and yu choy. It was spicy but not overwhelming, with just enough sauce to cling to the noodles without leaving a puddle in the bowl. It was the kind of dish that makes you stop and just take it all in for a second.

We were tempted by dessert but too full to commit. We waddled out happily stuffed and made sure to spin the Pokémon Go Pokéstop at the giant strawberry one more time before heading home.

Small Towns, Side Quests, and a Cabin in the Woods

We set aside this day for travel. The direct drive from Nashville to Pigeon Forge takes about three and a half hours, but with a scenic route and a fun car, we had no reason to rush. Instead of taking I-40, we followed US-70, a quieter, more rural highway that runs alongside it. Our route took us through Lebanon, Watertown, Smithville, Sparta, and Crossville before cutting through Knoxville and down to Pigeon Forge via Sevierville.

Driving through these small towns on a Sunday meant most of the local shops were closed and the streets nearly empty. We strolled through a few town squares, soaked in the stillness, and embraced the meandering pace. On paper, this detour only added about an hour, but with spontaneous stops and side quests, it stretched into a full-day trip—just the way we like it.

Just past Crossville, about an hour from Knoxville, we made a detour to Ozone Falls, part of Tennessee’s State Natural Areas program. The waterfall drops 110 feet into a rocky cove, surrounded by a sandstone amphitheater that makes it feel tucked away from the rest of the world. A small roadside parking area gave us easy access to the trail. The route to the top is straightforward, starting just left of the main info sign. The path down to the base is less obvious—it cuts off to the right along the highway before dropping steeply into the cove. With natural rock steps and a few scramble-y bits, the descent was short but a little rugged.

At the bottom, the falls were flowing moderately enough to be impressive without soaking everything nearby. A few hikers were scattered around the cove, relaxing on boulders or soaking in the view. We lingered for a while, listening to the water and admiring the layered rock formations, then climbed back up and continued on our way.

Rolling into Pigeon Forge felt like crossing into another dimension. After a day of sleepy towns and natural beauty, the explosion of mini-golf courses, wax museums, go-kart tracks, and neon lights lining the Parkway was… a lot. It was like Vegas met Americana roadside kitsch. We grabbed some forgettable pizza near the end of the strip and called it a night.

Instead of staying in Pigeon Forge proper, we booked an Airbnb cabin in Seymour, Tennessee, about 30 minutes away. Everyone online seemed to recommend renting a cabin in the area, and since we’d be in hotels for the rest of the trip, this felt like the right time to try it. The location meant longer drives—30 minutes to Pigeon Forge, 50 to Sugarlands Visitor Center, and about 1 hour and 20 minutes to Kuwohi—but the place itself made up for it.

The A-frame cabin was tucked quietly into the woods, with hammocks, a fire pit, a hot tub, and just enough room to stretch out and relax. It was well-designed, peaceful, and honestly deserved a whole day to itself. If we did the trip again, we’d either stay closer to the park to cut down on drive time or build in an extra day to enjoy the cabin. As it was, we only used it as a place to crash between early mornings and long days—but even that felt like a luxury. It was quiet, cozy, and a perfect reset before the pace picked up.

Mountain Peaks to Singing Beaks, and Autumn’s Grand Show

We woke up at 4 a.m. for the hour-and-a-half drive from our Airbnb in Seymour to Kuwohi (pronounced koo-WHOA-hee), the highest point in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Formerly known as Clingmans Dome, the site was recently restored to its traditional Cherokee name. Kuwohi sits near the center of the Cherokee Nation’s ancestral homelands and remains a sacred place to the Cherokee people. Seeing the name officially returned to the map is part of an ongoing effort to honor the region’s original inhabitants and their enduring connection to the land.

The half-mile paved trail to the observation deck was peaceful in the early morning. We were among the first to arrive, though more visitors trickled in before sunrise. It was cold, foggy, and windy. We caught a few faint glimpses of the sun through the mist, but the full sunrise never showed. Instead, we watched layers of trees fade in and out of view—beautiful in its own quiet way, just not what we’d hoped for. When the sky finally cleared, the first thing to emerge wasn’t golden light, but a cell tower smack in the middle of the view. Not ideal, but we had to laugh.

On our first morning to catch the sunrise, we discovered that the picturesque views we were searching for were not from the observation tower. As it turns out, the Kuwohi parking lot had incredible, unobstructed views of the Smokies, facing east. We returned the next day and got exactly what we were hoping for.

Back in town, we stopped at Frizzle Chicken Café for brunch. You don’t go here for the food or the service—you go for the animatronic chickens. While we ate a very average diner breakfast, a chorus of robotic poultry serenaded us with clucking renditions of the Star Wars theme, Sweet Home Alabama, and At the Hop. It was absurd in all the right ways. I’d heard about this place before the trip and knew we had to check it out. If you’re in Pigeon Forge and don’t embrace at least one over-the-top tourist trap, are you even doing it right?

After fueling up ourselves and the car, we headed back into the park to see if we’d hit peak fall color. We stopped at several scenic pullouts along the way. The foliage wasn’t quite at its peak, but we caught plenty of vibrant pockets: bursts of red, gold, and orange scattered among the green. It was enough to feel the shift of the season.

Our route eventually took us to Mingo Falls. While often associated with the park, it’s technically located outside of it on the Qualla Boundary—the sovereign land of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians. The short trail to the falls includes a steep staircase, but the payoff is immediate: a towering 120-foot waterfall framed by lush foliage. We lucked out and had the place to ourselves for a while, with only the sound of rushing water and the occasional drifting leaf.

On our way back, just outside the park’s southern entrance, we spotted two male elk sparring in a clearing. Living in Colorado, we’ve seen plenty of elk—especially in Rocky Mountain National Park—but watching them lock antlers during rutting season never gets old. There’s something primal and majestic about seeing them clash in the wild.

One thing we couldn’t do on this trip was drive the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s usually one of the best ways to see fall color, but the road was still closed due to flood damage from Hurricane Helene. We’d hoped to catch at least a few overlooks or short sections, but with the closure, we had to skip it entirely. Disappointing, but it gives us a reason to come back.

Hiking Mount LeConte (Kind of)

Originally, we planned to hike to LeConte Lodge together, but I had to sit this one out—I was still recovering from sore joints after a big hike a few weeks earlier. Nongchao made the trek solo, taking the Alum Cave Trail up to Mount LeConte and Myrtle Point.

The hike took about eight hours round-trip, including plenty of stops for rest and sightseeing. Nongchao said the trail wasn’t especially difficult, though it had a decent amount of elevation gain. Compared to the previous day’s views from the road, the fall colors were much more vibrant along the trail—whether that was due to the elevation or just better timing, hard to say. The Smokies lived up to their name, with mist rolling through the valleys and adding to the atmosphere.

The weather had cooled off, and by the time he reached Myrtle Point, light snow had started to fall. Most of the trail winds through forest, so exposure was minimal and conditions stayed manageable. The crisp air added to the mood, but what made this hike feel different from our usual ones was the setting itself—dense deciduous forest, layered ridgelines, and that signature Smoky Mountain mist.

Myrtle Point offered some of the best views of the park, with layers of mountains fading into the haze. That, plus the vivid fall color, was the highlight of the day.

At the top, he passed by LeConte Lodge but wasn’t particularly impressed. When we first planned the trip, we’d considered staying there overnight, but after seeing it in person, he didn’t think it was necessary. The hike was doable as a day trip, even with stops. After a short break at the summit, he headed back down the same trail. Overall, a beautiful hike—and hopefully one I’ll get to do next time.

Dolly Dreams & Coaster Screams

I’ve always wanted to visit Dollywood. Growing up during the heyday of Roller Coaster Tycoon—that pixelated theme park sim—planted the seeds of my love for roller coasters, park design, and immersive experiences. Add Dolly Parton’s legacy to the mix, and it’s been on my list for years.

When planning the trip, we debated staying at one of Dolly’s resorts or sticking with the cabin we’d already booked. The resorts were pricey, had a two-night minimum, and didn’t make a ton of sense on paper. But we YOLO’d our way into a stay at DreamMore Resort—and we’re so glad we did.

If you want the full Dolly experience, we actually found more of it at the resort than in the park itself. The moment we walked in, we were greeted by live acoustic music from two musicians in full “Christian Girl Autumn” uniforms: wide-brimmed felt hats, flannel, skinny jeans, and boots, playing from the stair landing above the lobby. Cozy sitting areas with fireplaces dotted the space. Butterfly motifs—one of Dolly’s favorite symbols—were hidden throughout. And then there was the Dream Box: a locked wooden time capsule filled by Dolly with memories, messages, and an unreleased song titled My Place in History, not to be opened until her 100th birthday on January 19, 2046.

We grabbed dinner at Song & Hearth, the resort’s main restaurant, which serves up Southern comfort food like fried chicken, collard greens, and Dolly’s family’s signature stone soup. According to Dolly, her mama would gather the kids and have each one bring a pebble. The child who needed a little extra love that day got to drop their stone into the pot, adding “flavor” to a big pot of soup made with real ingredients and even more heart. It’s a small story, but it sets the tone for just how much thought and warmth are baked into the experience here.

The next morning, we hopped on the resort’s complimentary trolley to the park. Arriving just after opening, we were handed TimeSaver passes—one of the perks of staying at the resort—that let us skip the main lines for most rides. First stop: Lightning Rod.

Lightning Rod was the first-ever wooden coaster with a magnetic launch system, but after years of reliability issues, the launch was replaced with a more traditional and reliable lift chain. It had been recently refur and this was the first season of the new setup. While I was a little bummed to miss out on the original version, I was just happy it was running consistently. I rode it several times during our visit.

Nongchao, who’s occasionally prone to motion sickness, said he’d try one coaster and figured it might as well be the wildest one. I offered to start with something tamer, but he was committed. After the ride, I asked how he felt. He just looked at me and said, “I think I need a break.” Fair. While I made the rounds on the rest of the coasters, he explored the shops and snack stands, which were plentiful thanks to the Harvest Festival going on during our visit.

That afternoon, we returned to the resort for a quick break before heading back into the park for Great Pumpkin LumiNights. I squeezed in one more ride on Lightning Rod, and we both rode Big Bear Mountain, Dollywood’s newest family coaster. It’s a smooth, fast ride that winds through the trees with onboard audio and a few fun surprises, especially at night. Thousands of glowing jack-o’-lanterns lit up the fog, giving the whole park a delightfully eerie, magical vibe. Riding coasters in the dark is a totally different experience. Like Space Mountain, every drop and turn feels more intense when you can’t see what’s coming.

On our second day, I focused on re-riding my favorites and checking off the last few food stops from our Harvest Festival tasting pass. We also explored the Dolly Parton Experience, an interactive walk-through exhibit about her life, career, and philanthropy. It’s beautifully done and worth slowing down for—especially if you’re even remotely a Dolly fan.

Thanks to the TimeSaver passes and a tight plan, we could have done everything in one day, but having two days gave us room to take it slow and soak it all in.

Before leaving Pigeon Forge, we made one last stop for a bit of kitschy fun: Wild Gal Old Time Photo. I had fond memories of dressing up for these photo shoots as a kid and wanted to recreate it with my partner in crime. This studio was much nicer than the ones I remembered, and the photo quality showed it. We dressed up, posed through several hilarious scenes, and walked out with a print and a digital copy. The sitting, photo, and one digital file cost $85. If we’d wanted all of the pictures, it would’ve been $329. It was great fun and we loved heading home with truly unique souvenir.

Don’t Go Chasing Ruby Falls

As we started our journey back to Nashville, we decided to take a different route. We’d heard there were more caves near Chattanooga, so we set our sights on the Scenic City.

Dinner was a mixed bag. We grabbed pad Thai at a highly rated Thai restaurant that was fine, but nothing to write home about. Fortunately, Clumpies Ice Cream, though, was definitely the move. This local chain is based in Chattanooga, and we found a location in the Northshore district—a walkable, charming area with boutiques and a view of the river. The ice cream was excellent and worth the stop.

The next morning, we got an early start to visit Ruby Falls, a cave and underground waterfall tucked beneath Lookout Mountain. We knew it would be touristy, but the photos looked impressive, and we were curious. To beat the crowds and make it back to Nashville in time, we booked the first tour of the day—8:00 a.m.

We arrived 15 minutes early, as instructed, but were met with a locked door and a closed sign. No staff, no explanation. We stood in the cold, hoping at least to catch the sunrise from the Lookout Mountain Tower, but that was closed too.

Once we were finally let in, the tone was set. Ruby Falls felt more theme park than a national park—cool in theory, but not quite our speed. As with any guided tour, the experience depends a lot on the guide. Ours, despite it being the day’s first tour, seemed tired, disengaged, and ready to clock out.

The waterfall itself was interesting—a unique sight—but the rest of the cave felt underwhelming. Many formations were worn or damaged, and we spotted trash in multiple places. A sign at the entrance boasted about their commitment to preservation, but inside, it felt far from natural.

And the kicker? They printed photo packages for every group, whether anyone planned to buy them or not. The photographer barely looked up, and our shot was a perfectly timed mid-blink. No one checked. No one cared. Most of the photos, including ours, were headed straight for the trash.

If you’re into caves that feel wild or well-preserved, this one might leave you disappointed. But if you’re traveling with kids or love theatrical lighting in your caves, Ruby Falls might still be a fun stop. Next time we’re in the area, we’re planning to check out Rock City for the rock formations and waterfalls—or Cumberland Caverns for a more authentic caving experience. Got other recs? We’d love to hear them.

One Last Chicken Showdown and a Giant Greek Goddess

We arrived back in Nashville around noon, with just enough time for a few final stops before wrapping up the trip.

Lunch was at Prince’s Hot Chicken, the original home of Nashville hot chicken. But honestly… we liked Hattie B’s better. That might be heresy to some, but we stand by it. Prince’s was solid, but we preferred the flavor and variety of sides at Hattie B’s.

Afterward, we took a quick walk through Music Row. Neither of us is big into country music, so while the studios are legendary, a lot of the history and charm were probably lost on us. Still, it was a lively neighborhood, and we were glad we saw it—even if we weren’t exactly the target audience. We stopped at a nearby coffee shop for a cold brew and asked the barista for recommendations. She pointed us toward Opry Mills Mall and the Gaylord Opryland Hotel. Nongchao, who loves window shopping and mall wandering, was instantly sold.

Before heading that way, we made a quick stop at Centennial Park to check out the full-scale replica of the Parthenon. It’s just as weird and cool as it sounds. You don’t expect to find ancient Athens in Tennessee, but there it is, towering over a field of frisbee golfers. Inside is an art museum and a massive statue of Athena that is… a lot. She stands 42 feet (12.8 meters) tall in the central hall, painted white to resemble ivory and gilded in gold. In her right hand, she holds a 6’4” (1.93 m) statue of Nike, the goddess of victory. Her piercing blue eyes make it hard to look anywhere else.

Also inside are marble casts of the east and west pediments from the original Parthenon in Athens. The east side shows Athena’s birth—fully grown and armored—emerging from Zeus’s head while the other gods look on like a divine family witnessing the most dramatic headache ever. The west side depicts her battle with Poseidon for control of the city. He struck the ground to produce a saltwater spring (great for drama, less great for agriculture), while she planted the first olive tree. The people chose her gift, and the city became Athens. Some figures are missing, either lost to time or tucked away in museums, but the detail in the remaining casts is still striking.

We started next door at Opry Mills Mall, a sprawling circular maze of stores and food courts. It was perfect for aimless roaming and people-watching. We grabbed some surprisingly good milk tea and sipped it on the short walk to the Gaylord. That place feels less like a hotel and more like a botanical theme park that happens to have rooms. We explored all three indoor gardens, took photos of tropical flowers, scoped out the restaurants, and watched a small boat ferry guests along the indoor river. It was over-the-top in the best way.

This ended up being a surprise favorite in Nashville. We walked in not really knowing what to expect and stayed for over an hour. It’s basically a giant greenhouse with waterfalls, gardens, paved trails, and the occasional conference-goer looking just as lost as we were. Peaceful, confusing, and unexpectedly delightful.

We ended the day with dinner at Xiao Bao, returning to revisit the hand-pulled noodles we’d been thinking about all week and to try a few new dishes. Still just as good the second time.

Final Thoughts from the Road

By the end of the trip, we’d covered a lot of ground—national parks, neon-lit parkways, high-speed coasters, and quiet cabin mornings. Tennessee gave us variety, color, and more Dolly Parton references than we knew we needed. Sure, there were a few letdowns (looking at you, Ruby Falls), but also plenty of unexpected highlights: the DreamMore Resort, a peaceful waterfall hike, and an indoor riverboat ride in the middle of a hotel.

We left feeling full, tired, and pretty sure we’ll be back—especially once the Blue Ridge Parkway finally reopens. Until then, we’ve got memories, photos, and a noodle craving that still hasn’t gone away.